There is already a large volume of press on Root, and this
restaurant definitely deserves the chatter. Root is the leader of modern
cuisine in New Orleans. There are clear influences from leading modern chefs
like Thomas Keller (French Laundry, Per Se) and the Adria brothers (El Bulli).
Also, it is safe to assume the chef here has studied Modernist Cuisine by Nathan Myhrvold. The modern influence
stretches from food trucks to white tablecloths. Freshest product, science,
artful presentations, and new styles are the principals of modern cuisine. In
New Orleans Root is the modern boss.
The ambiance is modern as well, but more casual than the
food. White tablecloths are absent here, I found that a pleasant change. It is
a well lit restaurant, the feeling is more social than intimate. Root has white
leather seating, very unique in a restaurant, this adds the feeling of a
sophisticated nightclub. The dining room complements the menu in a way that
tells the diner, “This is the new cool.” When a diner leaves Root they will see
the modern direction of the food movement..
The European attitude towards best produce and proteins is a
foundation of modern cooking. Root fully embraces the philosophy. The
charcuterie and sausage board could have been served in Spain or France and the
Europeans would love it. The “Face” bacon and Pâté de Campagne were the most
intoxicating items on the board. These are the kind of items that ruin other
foods. Regular store bought bacon isn’t exciting anymore, and the Pâté is so
addictive I wanted to ask if I could by some for my house. This board was ample
and rich, four people would be the ideal number to finish it comfortably. We
made sure to order salads for the next course.
Usually salads are on menus to offer something light. These
salads are light but also exciting and sophisticated. These vegetables are some
of the best I have eaten. The local heirloom tomatoes tasted like fruits. This
writer is a sucker for compressed melons and this salad had great melons. The
watermelon and cantaloupe were sweet as candy and they had a shine from the
compression, like the sun had glistened them. I would go back to Root just for
the salad. I still haven’t written on my principal (entree) and dessert.
Bone marrow is described as butter for the gods. Aptly so,
it is difficult to be disappointed by this ingredient. This dish was sprinkled
with Arabic flavors. The za’atar naan bread served as a crispy vehicle for the
bone marrow. Za’atar is a dried Arabic herb, it added another layer of flavor
when eating the bone marrow. Face bacon jam was on this dish, it tastes how it
sounds. It is jam but it tastes like the best bacon ever. The produce on this
dish is expertly chosen. Charred cucumber salata and compressed watermelon are
perfect palate refreshers for these proteins.
I have to mention the amount of components the dishes at
Root have. Most of the dishes here have at least five components. For these
dishes to be at an elite level and have so many components, demonstrates the
expertise and work ethic of the chef and his staff.
The expert craftsmanship of numerous components leads the
plates here to have a landscape quality worthy of photography. The salads taste
like the best garden and they look like the most beautiful garden. The desserts
were like movies, many scenes with many characters that formed a sweet
ensemble. The carrot cake had views of carrot coriander ice cream that got
mixed in with black sesame praline. I have never seen or tasted a charred
carrot marshmallow but I ate on from this film on a plate.
Across the table my colleague had the peach crumble. Nitro
mousse created a gorgeous fog that romantically fell around the peachy dessert
wonder, like fog on a bay.. This dessert had seven components and it was so
beautiful it could make the cover of any food magazine in the world.
New Orleans is one of the best places to eat on earth and
Root is one of the best restaurants in New Orleans. I would return here until I
ate the whole menu. Then I would return again.
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